Coca-Cola, Chapli Kabab &
Chaudharys of Gujrat

This article was not on the cards. Then, I read the recent travel advisory issued by the U.S. Department of State. Wow! I wasn’t aware of what’s happening in my own country. Nowhere is safe, including transportation hubs, markets, shopping malls, military installations, airports, tourist attractions, schools, hospitals, places of worship, and government facilities.

I have learned that the most credible intel from the USA comes from the Pentagon, which has a larger budget, more locations, and more embedded operatives.

Harking back to 1963, Peshawar. The American in Peshawar was Mr. William (Bill) Spengler, the U.S. Consul General. I was studying at Edwardes College, Peshawar, just after returning from the USA. Mr. & Mrs. Spengler befriended me, and I was a frequent visitor to their official residence on Fort Road. A nephew of the Spenglers, Phil, came for a year’s visit and joined Edwardes College in the first year. Peshawar, in fact, all of NWFP, was then known as safe. Foreigners, diplomatic or private, moved around with guards or excessive security clearance.

Mrs. Spengler self-drove an old Mercedes with a diplomatic number plate. At least on two occasions, on the spur of the moment, Mrs. Spengler and her entourage (Phil, two children, and myself) drove to Torkham for some fun, shopping, “Chapli Kabab,” and the ubiquitous Coca-Cola, so well-loved by the bearded shopkeepers. Across the border, Kabul would become the “hippy” capital of the world.

Outside Peshawar was an American establishment known as the ‘Badaber’ base. Actually, it was a large CIA communication and tracking station. They did not have their own airfield but discreetly used the Peshawar Airport. Francis Gary Powers, a CIA U-2 pilot operated from Badaber. He took off on May 01, 1960, and was shot down by a Russian missile. Francis parachuted and was captured by the Soviets, leading to a major Cold War diplomatic crisis. He was imprisoned for 21 months. Eventually, he was exchanged for a Soviet spy, Rudolf Abel, on February 10, 1962.

According to the club register of the Badaber station, Francis Gary Powers enjoyed a good meal the evening before the flight—a small shot of bourbon (on the rocks), a steak (medium rare) accompanied by Vegas potatoes, rounded off by his favorite dessert—almost like a condemned prisoner enjoying his last supper.

Many young airmen and soldiers at Badaber were seen frequently in Peshawar. They followed some security measures but could largely socialize. The Edwardes College basketball team occasionally played with the Badaber team at their courts. Mr. Spengler promoted much of this free interaction, sometimes overtly, sometimes behind the scenes.

Fast forward to Lahore, December 1970. I was stationed in Lahore, working for the Imperial Company ICI. We lived (my wife and I) in a small annexe in the FCC Area of Gulberg.

One evening, the landline phone rang (the old black phenolic resin telephone). It was a business call. While conversing with the caller, I heard an American voice in the background. Evidently, a crossed line. I recognized the voice as belonging to Mrs. Spengler (the Intel guys screwed up again.) I was not aware that the Spenglers were in Lahore. I thought they had retired. The next morning, I sent a discreet note to Mrs. Spengler. The reunion was great.

Note: The FCC Area was a prime area of Gulberg named after Forman Christian College. In those days (1960s), the left turnoff from Canal Bank was lined with good houses. The Chaudharys of Gujrat have taken over this area. Who says politics doesn’t pay?