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Fashion

Inclusivity and Diversity

The Indian fashion industry combines all the colours of ethnic productivity with modern-day needs.

By SARA DANIAL | September 2022

Although divided by religion, politics and social structures, India and Pakistan converge and coalesce on many fronts, such as entertainment, language, literature, fashion, music, etc. While it has only been 75 years of independence for both states, they have co-existed for more than a millennium. The exchange of fashion between the two countries has always grabbed attention amongst fashionistas around the globe. With particular reference to the Indian fashion landscape, many associate bold cuts, colours and patterns with Indian fashion as they ooze with smart detailing and craftsmanship, especially in terms of aesthetics and inspiration. In fact, Indian words populate the lexicon of fabrics and are still used today — calico, chintz, khaki, to name a few. This recognition and dominance stand relevant today with Indian fashion.

A country with the world’s largest youth population, India has a substantial chunk of millennial generation. It’s only natural for fashion players to thrive in this international market. Many fashion brands are bringing about a kind of fashion revolution for the new age-conscious fashion enthusiasts in India that also reflects the culture of the country, where everything that was coming from the West held a special value in the eyes of the customers earlier on. These brands are mindful, diverse, supremely fashionable, and are getting global attention too. High-street fashion brands like Zara, H&M, Mango, Forever 21 and Berksha were trendy and pocket-friendly, launched new styles every week, and made India a part of the larger global fashion movement. This enabled the home-grown designers to take the lead and understand the needs of the customers, and cultural nuances of fashion, the inhibitions of the youth, hence proving more successful than their global counterparts.

We are living in a fast-paced, digital age where information is power and dissemination is swift. Indians want to know how their clothes are made, who is making them, and the kind of effect their purchase will make. Moreover, they are taking pride in adorning ‘Make in India’ brands. Various Indian fashion brands that have carved a niche for themselves are Bunaai, Hidesign, The Cai Store, Needledust, Jodi, and The Indian Cause. Indian films also have a large impact on India’s costume and colour circuit, creating an influential material culture and fashion diffusion. The films are popular across cultures and countries as costumes are instantly copied by the general public to establish an identity.



The winning designs are primarily inspired by and utilize local tradition and textile craft. Today’s Indian world follows fashions from their heritage as well as contemporary fashions from across the world, the blend of which bridges Indian heritage and modern Indian aesthetic, and preserves the ethnic heritage of the country at the same time. They are also bringing Indian artisanship and community and craft sustainability. For example, Anita Dongre’s Grassroots line focuses on fashion-forward garments with hand embroidery created by craftswomen in their own home, maintaining their connection to family and away from harsh factory conditions. Moreover, Arnab Banerjee and Siewspah Buhroy also highlight the importance of traditional craft, with their designs being focused on handloom weavers.

India is also showcasing inclusivity and diversity, which is no more a trend but a necessity to depict current sentiments; because earlier on, the brands were essentially sticking to the standards of what will sell commercially. There are different-sized influencers, who are really good fashion influencers. One can also see plus-sized models, short models, and non-binary models in their fashion weeks. Therefore, inclusivity has become part of the mainstream fashion culture, accepted and also celebrated – and they continue to do so through various campaigns. For example, Manish Malhotra, a veteran fashion designer in India, feels that inclusivity is not just limited to size, gender, or colour, but that the word goes beyond any measures. For him, fashion has to be a precise depiction of oneself. It is important to dismiss stereotypes, not just online but offline too. So India now boasts clothes that are more modular, transformable, gender fluid, ones where buttons can be ditched for the disabled, more conscious, and the one that caters to the special needs with customization.

It can be easily said that fashion in India caters to more than just costume, cuts, and aesthetics. It goes over and beyond to cover various social, cultural, and communal disorders that riddle the country, and the world at large.

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