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Politics of Fabrics

The success of Rahul Gandhi’s ‘White T-shirt Movement’ hinges on the Indian National Congress’s ability to transform symbolism into substance.

By Muhammad Arslan Qadeer | March 2025


India, historically, has been a region where symbolism has always played a pivotal role in conveying messages and rallying support. Rahul Gandhi’s recent “White T-shirt Movement” is a testament to this tradition, sparking debates across the nation. Launched on his 54th birthday, June 19, 2024, Gandhi introduced this campaign by emphasizing that the white T-shirt “symbolizes transparency, solidity, and simplicity” for him. He invited supporters to don white T-shirts and share videos explaining the significance of these values in their lives, using the hashtag White T-Shirt Army. In return, he promised to gift participants a white T-shirt bearing his initials, “RG.”

The timing of this movement is particularly noteworthy. It coincided with widespread protests over alleged irregularities in the National Eligibility cum Entrance Test (NEET) and the University Grants Commission-National Eligibility Test (UGC-NET). These controversies, marked by paper leaks and exam cancellations, have ignited a firestorm of discontent among students and the broader public. By associating the white T-shirt with transparency, Gandhi aims to resonate with the youth’s demand for accountability and reform in the education system.

Education has long been a politically sensitive issue in India, with millions of students and their families directly affected by examination policies, admissions, and career opportunities. The recent turmoil surrounding NEET and UGC-NET has reinforced the perception of institutional inefficiency and corruption. Gandhi’s movement strategically taps into this frustration, positioning himself as a champion of students’ rights.

Historically, clothing has been a potent tool for political expression in India. Mahatma Gandhi’s adoption of the simple loincloth and spinning wheel was a deliberate act to align himself with the masses and promote self-reliance during the freedom struggle. His khadi movement symbolized economic independence from British rule, turning a simple piece of cloth into a revolutionary statement. Similarly, in modern times, political figures like Narendra Modi have leveraged attire to craft a distinct public persona—from his neatly draped Modi jackets to his carefully chosen headgear during different state visits.
Gandhi’s choice of a white T-shirt follows this tradition but with a contemporary twist. Unlike khadi, rooted in rural self-sufficiency, the white T-shirt is a universal, accessible, and modern garment. It appeals to India’s urban youth, many of whom engage more with digital activism than traditional political campaigns. The T-shirt serves as a blank slate, allowing individuals to project their personal interpretations onto the movement.

The movement’s official website elucidates that the white T-shirt embodies five core principles: compassion, unity, non-violence, equality, and progress for everyone. These values are deeply rooted in India’s 8,000-year-old civilization, which thrives on harmony and diversity. The campaign calls upon citizens to embrace these ideals, aiming to bridge societal divides and foster a cohesive, equitable nation.
In a country often divided by religion, caste, language, and economic disparity, the White T-shirt Movement attempts to provide a unifying symbol. Its emphasis on non-violence and unity echoes Gandhi’s principles, while its focus on progress and equality aligns with contemporary aspirations for a just society.


Despite its idealistic messaging, the movement has drawn significant criticism. Detractors argue that while the campaign generates visibility, it lacks a concrete policy roadmap. Critics label it a political gimmick designed to capitalize on public discontent without offering substantive solutions.

In a country divided by religion, caste, language, and economic disparity, the White T-shirt Movement, led by Congress leader Rahul Gandhi, attempts to provide a unifying symbol.

Political opponents point out that real change in education policy requires institutional reforms, better governance, and stringent measures against corruption in examinations-not just a symbolic clothing movement. They argue that Rahul Gandhi’s Congress party, when in power, also failed to address systemic issues in education and governance.

Additionally, some view the campaign as an attempt to rebrand Rahul Gandhi’s image following Congress’s performance in the 2024 general elections. Gandhi, often perceived as lacking the political aggressiveness of his rivals, is attempting to reshape his public persona as a leader of the people, particularly the youth.

In response to these critiques, proponents highlight the historical success of symbolic movements in India. They argue that symbolism can be a precursor to real change by igniting discussions and mobilizing public opinion. If effectively leveraged, the movement could serve as a catalyst for policy discussions on transparency, governance, and youth engagement.

The success of the White T-shirt Movement will ultimately depend on the Congress party’s ability to channel this momentum into actionable reforms. If it remains confined to social media trends and symbolic gestures, the movement risks fading into political obscurity. However, if it evolves into a sustained campaign with concrete policy proposals, it could serve as a launch pad for Congress’s revival.

One potential strategy is for Congress to incorporate the movement into its broader policy, advocating for:

Education reforms, including stricter anti-corruption measures in national exams.

Greater transparency in government policies, ensuring public accountability.

Youth empowerment programs, providing better employment and skill development opportunities.

Additionally, the movement could help Congress rebuild its grassroots connections. By engaging with student organizations, civil society groups, and digital activists, the party can use the White T-shirt as a symbolic entry point into larger discussions on governance.

Rahul Gandhi’s campaign is reminiscent of global movements where clothing has been used as a political tool. For instance:

The “Yellow Vest” protests in France (2018) symbolized working-class discontent over economic inequality.

The “Black Lives Matter” movement in the U.S. used clothing, such as black T-shirts with slogans, to make powerful political statements.

Iran’s “Women, Life, Freedom” movement, where women used clothing (removing headscarves) as an act of defiance against state oppression.

In each case, attire became an emblem of resistance and unity, much like Rahul Gandhi’s White T-shirt Movement seeks to be. However, successful movements also required strong organizational backing, clear demands, and policy-level engagement—aspects Congress will need to address if it hopes to sustain the movement beyond optics.

The White T-shirt Movement is rich in symbolic significance and has successfully captured public attention. However, the concrete actions that follow will determine its long-term impact.

Will it merely serve as a short-lived social media campaign, or will it evolve into a larger political movement? The answer hinges on Congress’s ability to transform symbolism into substance—by aligning the movement’s ideals with genuine political and policy reforms.

In the end, the power of a white T-shirt is not in the fabric but in the force behind it. If Gandhi and his party can sustain the momentum, address pressing governance issues, and genuinely engage with public concerns, the movement might just mark a new chapter in Indian political activism. Otherwise, it risks becoming another footnote in the history of well-intentioned but ineffective political symbolism.

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